A local's guide
Riyadh through a local's eyes
Riyadh is a sprawling city, big enough that exploring it can feel like a task. Here I try to share some of the details and quiet corners of a place that is full of things to do: heritage sites, real desert and mountain scenery, parks, malls, entertainment venues, restaurants, nature reserves, and more.
This is not an attempt to list the most famous places or the most popular experiences. It is my own experience and my own perspective.
Where do you want to start?
Places to visit
History, modern towers, and the desert on the edge of town. These are the ones I send friends to first.
Where to eat
Riyadh has restaurants from every kitchen, and the competition on quality and taste is high. You will eat really well here. This is a short list of the standout places I have tried and recommend.
Where to stay
Pick your neighborhood first, then the hotel. Here is how they differ.
Getting around
The new Metro changed the city. Here is how to move without renting your own headache.
Gyms and activities
Keep training and stay active. Big chains, women's studios, functional boxes, padel and open matches on Playtomic, and where to run outdoors.
Itineraries
Day plans that actually flow, grouped so you are not crossing the city twice.
Places worth your time
See all ›
Diriyah and At-Turaif
The mud-brick old town where the first Saudi state began, restored into a historic district that suits walking and sightseeing. Next to it, Bujairi Terrace is one of the best places in the city to eat.
National Museum of Saudi Arabia
A fairly old museum, but it tells the story of Saudi Arabia and what unfolded on this land, from the beginning and the Prophet's message through to the modern era, passing through the first and second Saudi states and all that happened along the way.
Wadi Hanifah
A long green valley threaded through Riyadh with water, palms, and walking paths. Locals come here in the evening to walk, cycle, and picnic.
Eat like a local
See all ›Wagyu Burger
$$$One of the best burger spots in the city. The wagyu burger, brisket fries, and sweet fries stand out and taste genuinely different, though the price sits above average.
Al Qarya Al Najdiyah
$$A standout spot for Najdi dishes, cooked the traditional way with the flavors you expect. The building itself recreates the look and the old tools of a Najdi home.
Mama Noura
$A Riyadh institution and one of its most famous shawarma spots. Get the shawarma, of course, plus the kebab sandwich, a cheese fatayer, and a mixed or layered fresh juice.
Know before you go
The few things that make a first visit to Riyadh easier.
When to visit
November to March. The weather is spring-like to wintry then, and good for being outside. In summer it goes past 40C, so plan your activities indoors, like malls and restaurants.
Money
The currency is the Saudi Riyal (SAR). Cards and phone payments work almost everywhere. You will rarely need cash.
Getting a visa
Many nationalities can get a tourist eVisa online or on arrival. Check your own country's status before you book, because the rules change with the seasons and circumstances.
Language
Arabic is the official language and everyone speaks it, but English is widely understood, including in hotels, malls, and ride-hailing apps. You will be fine.
What to wear
Dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees. Visitors are not required to wear an abaya, but loose and modest clothing is the right choice. There are public decency rules, linked below.
Weekend and prayer times
The weekend is Friday and Saturday, and the city is busier than usual. There are five daily prayers, you will hear the call to prayer, and people head to the mosques found all over the city.
The rhythm of the day
Riyadh is alive around the clock, especially in the cool months. But traffic is heaviest when people go to work in the morning and when they leave, so plan your schedule to avoid peak hours.